Threads of Tradition: Exploring Bengali Sarees in Istanbul

Bangladeshi sarees, from the intricate artistry of Jamdani to the luxurious Rajshahi silk, weave a rich narrative of tradition and craftsmanship, embodying the essence of Bangladesh’s cultural heritage

Bengali sarees are known for their exquisite craftsmanship, elegant designs and vibrant colors as well as representing the Bengali culture and identity, that are worn by women of all ages and social classes.

To introduce these symbols of tradition, identity, and femininity, Istanbl’s Consul General of Bangladesh Mohammed Nore-Alam’s wife Farzana Haque Boby hosted a saree event for the wives of other consul generals who conduct their missions in Istanbul at the Bangla House.

“Each saree tells a story, and through it, we connect with the generations that came before us. We find echoes of our ancestors’ creativity, their love for intricate designs, and their passion for colors that reflect the diversity of our land,” Boby stated in her speech.

She specifically gave a glimpse of well-known sarees that hail from different regions of Bangladesh such as Tangail, Rajshahi, Mirpur, Manipur and more.

“In Bangladesh, sarees are worn on various occasions including weddings, festivals, cultural events, and religious ceremonies. The choice of saree often reflects the significance of the event.”

During the event, the invitees are offered an “doodh cha,” often called chai tea or simply chai, a delightful and aromatic blend of tea, milk, and various spices along with traditional Bangla cuisine varying from samosa to desserts.

A photo from Farzana Haque Boby's saree event held in Bangla House, Istanbul, Türkiye, Oct. 16, 2023. (Photo courtesy of Consulate General of Bangladesh)
A photo from Farzana Haque Boby’s saree event held in Bangla House, Istanbul, Türkiye, Oct. 16, 2023. (Photo courtesy of Consulate General of Bangladesh)

Ancient cloth

The history of saree fabrics can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilization (around 2800-1800 B.C.) in present-day Pakistan and northwest India. Archaeological findings suggest that women draped themselves in garments resembling sarees made from cotton. Cotton cultivation and weaving techniques were well-developed during this period.

The Vedas – ancient Hindu texts – mention a garment similar to the saree called “Antariya” and “Vastra.” These were essentially unstitched pieces of cloth worn by both men and women. Fabrics like cotton, silk, and wool were woven and dyed using natural materials.

Silk fabric became prominent during the Mauryan and Gupta periods. The trade routes connecting India with Central Asia and China facilitated the exchange of silk, leading to the use of silk in sarees for the aristocracy.

The Mughal era introduced intricate embroidery and decorative techniques to sarees. Persian motifs and techniques like Zardozi (metal embroidery) were incorporated into saree designs, especially for the royal court and nobility.

Workers hang freshly dyed threads on a wooden structure as they are being dried in the sunshine in Narayanganj, Bangladesh. (Getty Images Photo)
Workers hang freshly dyed threads on a wooden structure as they are being dried in the sunshine in Narayanganj, Bangladesh. (Getty Images Photo)

Jamdani

The meticulous art of jamdani weaving – originating in Dhaka, Bangladesh – is renowned for its intricate designs and labor-intensive process.

Named Dhakai Jamdani after its place of origin, this technique involves a thread count ranging from 80 to 120. Depending on the complexity of the design, crafting a jamdani saree can take anywhere from one month to over three months to complete.

Unlike many other weaving methods, jamdani is eco-friendly and requires the collaboration of two weavers at the loom. The master weaver, positioned on the right side, imparts instructions, while the apprentice, stationed on the left, diligently follows these directions. The process begins with humble prayers, invoking divine guidance for the weavers.

In recognition of its cultural significance, UNESCO declared the art of jamdani weaving as an intangible heritage in 2017.

Bengali politician AFM Ahsanuddin Chowdhury, president of Bangladesh, with British royal, Queen Elizabeth II, wearing a floral print dress and matching hat, during a visit to the village of Bairagpur, Bangladesh, Nov. 17, 1983. (Getty Images Photo)
Bengali politician AFM Ahsanuddin Chowdhury, president of Bangladesh, with British royal, Queen Elizabeth II, wearing a floral print dress and matching hat, during a visit to the village of Bairagpur, Bangladesh, Nov. 17, 1983. (Getty Images Photo)

Muslin

Once, Dhakai Muslin was renowned globally for its unparalleled softness, lightweight nature, and exceptional breathability, earning it the poetic moniker “Woven Wind” due to its delicate and airy texture.

Legend has it that an entire saree crafted from muslin could effortlessly fit into a matchbox or gracefully pass through a finger ring. However, the cotton plant responsible for producing this unique muslin fabric, known as Phuti Karpas, became extinct over a century ago, halting its production around 1850.

In recent years, a dedicated group of researchers managed to successfully reproduce this extraordinary cotton fabric. The endeavor involved over two years of meticulous work by four skilled weavers, who painstakingly created 500 counts of yarn and expertly wove it using traditional handloom techniques.

Muslin sarees, once woven, were worn not just as garments but as symbols of grace and sophistication, representing the rich heritage of craftsmanship and elegance.

Mirpur Benaroshi

Mirpur Benaroshi Sarees hold a deep-rooted historical and cultural importance in Bangladesh. The Mughal royalty held a particular fondness for the exquisite katan silk, a fabric crafted by intertwining two threads, a process distinct from other forms of silk that require varying numbers of yarn.

These luxurious Benaroshi sarees are cherished for their intricate craftsmanship and unparalleled beauty. They are traditionally worn on significant events such as weddings and festivals, symbolizing grace and elegance during these special occasions. The rich heritage and artistry embedded in each Benaroshi saree contribute to its high value and cultural significance in Bangladesh.

Tangail handloom

Tangail sarees, a revered traditional style originating from the weaving hub of Tangail district in Bangladesh, are esteemed for their rich heritage and intricate craftsmanship. These sarees are meticulously woven from fine cotton threads and are characterized by the unique “twill weave” technique employed in their creation.

One of the distinctive features of Tangail sarees lies in their diverse designs, which often include geometric patterns, stripes adorned with elaborate borders, and motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, leaves, and vines. These artistic elements add to the allure of Tangail sarees, making them a visual delight.

Tangail sarees are not only suitable for daily wear due to their comfort but are also chosen for festive occasions and celebrations. Their ability to seamlessly combine tradition, comfort, and beauty continues to captivate saree enthusiasts, both within Bangladesh and beyond. These sarees stand as a testament to the rich weaving heritage of Tangail, showcasing the skill and artistry of the craftsmen who create them.

Bangladeshi desserts presented during the Farzana Haque Boby's saree event held in Bangla House, Istanbul, Türkiye, Oct. 16, 2023. (Photo courtesy of Consulate General of Bangladesh)
Bangladeshi desserts presented during the Farzana Haque Boby’s saree event held in Bangla House, Istanbul, Türkiye, Oct. 16, 2023. (Photo courtesy of Consulate General of Bangladesh)

Rajshahi silk

Originating from the city of Rajshahi in the northwestern part of Bangladesh, Rajshahi sarees are crafted from premium quality silk threads. The silk used in these sarees is renowned for its softness and luxurious texture, imparting a smooth and natural sheen to the fabric.

The weaving process of Rajshahi sarees is highly intricate and demands specialized equipment along with meticulous attention to detail. Skilled artisans employ traditional handloom techniques, showcasing their expertise to create these exquisite pieces of art.

Rajshahi sarees hold a special significance and are typically reserved for significant occasions such as weddings, festivals, and cultural events. They symbolize the rich tradition, artistry, and heritage of the region, becoming a source of pride for the people. Due to their cultural importance and craftsmanship, these sarees are often treasured as heirlooms, passed down through generations, reflecting the timeless beauty and craftsmanship of Rajshahi.

Manipuri handloom

The Bangladeshi Manipuri saree stands as a proud symbol of traditional craftsmanship, originating from the Sylhet region of Bangladesh. These sarees are meticulously hand-woven using fine cotton threads, showcasing the skill and dedication of the artisans involved in their creation.

One of the distinctive features of Manipuri sarees is their temple borders, adorned with intricate geometric and flower patterns, adding to their unique charm. In the Sylhet region, where these sarees are crafted, approximately 90% of women are engaged in the art of weaving, with a popular saying that Manipuri – a distinct Asian ethnic group found in northeastern India and Bangladesh – girls are natural weavers from birth.

What makes Manipuri sarees exceptional is their completely hand-woven nature, ensuring that there is no distinction between the front and the back. Both sides of the saree are equally usable, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into every piece.

These versatile sarees find their place on various occasions, ranging from everyday wear to special events and festivals. The Manipuri saree, with its rich tradition and timeless appeal, continues to be cherished by individuals who appreciate the artistry and cultural significance embedded within its fibers.

Source: Daily Sabah

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